Gazetteer/Almanac
John Hayward, Gazetteer of the United States of America… (Philadelphia: James L. Gihon, 1854), 121-123.
OREGON (TERRITORY.) One of the recently-organized territories of the United States, embracing a vast region, extending from the Rocky Mountains on the east to the Pacific Ocean on the west. The Columbia River, its principal stream, was discovered in 1792, and named by Captain Gray, of ship Columbia, of Boston. Having penetrated the river for some distance, and established the fact of its existence, the title by discovery belonged to the United States. Under the authority of this government, Captains Lewis and Clarke, in 1804 and 1805, explored the country from the mouth of the Missouri to the mouth of the Columbia, where they passed the following winter, thus strengthening the claim of the United States to the territory; this exploration of the river being the first ever made by civilized adventurers. The first trading-house established in that region was erected on Lewis's River, a branch of the Columbia, in 1808, by the Missouri Fur Company; and in 1811, the town of Astoria was founded by the Pacific Fur Company, under John Jacob Astor, of New York. This post wassubsequently transferred to the British "Hudson's Bay Company," in consequence of its exposed situation during the war of 1812; but was afterwards restored, according to a stipulation in the treaty of Ghent. The British government, however, claimed certain portions of the northern part of the country; and the question of boundary between the English and American possessions was for a long time a matter of controversy and negotiation. The subject was at length adjusted in 1847, and the 49th parallel of north latitude agreed upon as the line of demarcation. Congress, at about the same period, passed an act for the organization of a territorial government. The provisions of this act, so far as they relate to civil and judicial magistrates, to the Indians, the public lands, school reservations, &c., are similar to those established in the case of Minnesota Territory. (See Minnesota.) The act has since been amended in some particulars; but its general features are not essentially altered.
The Territory of Oregon is bounded north by the British possessions, from which it is divided at the parallel of 49° north latitude; east by the main range of the Rocky Mountains, separating it from the waste region of Nebraska; south by the Territory of Utah, and the State of California; and west by the Pacific Ocean. It extends from latitude 42° north to the above parallel; and, along its southern boundary, reaches from the 108th to the 124th degree of west longitude. Its area is estimated at upwards of 340,000 square miles.
The surface presents three distinct sections or tracts of country, formed by separate and nearly parallel mountain ranges, two of which extend through the territory from north to south. The Cascade Mountains form the eastern limit of the first section, its western boundary being the ocean ; between these mountains and the next eastern range, called the Blue Mountains, lies the middle or second section; and the third section, still farther eastward, reaches to the Rocky Mountains.
These divisions differ considerably in most of their physical characteristics — in soil, climate, and natural products. The soil of the western or coast section, for the space of 100 to 150 miles east of the ocean, is not remarkably well adapted to the growth of grains, although many kinds of vegetable esculents may be successfully cultivated. The land is well timbered with firs, spruce, pine, oaks, ash, cedar, poplar, maple, willow, and other forest-trees. Fruit-trees of the more hardy kinds, shrubbery, vines, &c., are found to thrive in all unexposed places. Towards the coast, some of the forest-trees attain a prodigious size and height. Near Astoria, eight miles from the sea, there is, or recently was, a fir-tree 46 feet in girth, and 300 feet high; the trunk rising to a height of 153 feet before giving off a single branch. On the banks of the River Umpqua is a still more enormous specimen of the fir, being 57 feet in circumference, and 216 feet high below the branches. Pines reaching an altitude of 200 to 300 feet, and 20 to 40 feet round, are quite common. Good grazing tracts, and lands suited to the culture of many kinds of grain, and to the growth of pears, apples, and similar fruits, are found in the interior of this section, and at the base of the Cascade Mountains. The climate in this quarter is mild, though affected unfavorably at times by the raw sea fogs. It is not, however, unhealthy. The winters continue only from two to three months, commencing in December, though the rainy season lasts from November to March. Snow is not common, except upon the summits of the mountains. The middle section of the territory possesses a fair soil, consisting in part of a light, sandy loam, with many tracts of rich alluvion in the valleys. It is peculiarly suited to the production of wheat, and is fruitful in almost every description of vegetation. The climate here, especially towards the south, is uniformly pleasant and salubrious. The third division, lying between the Blue and Rocky Mountains, is extremely rough, and generally barren, with a correspondingly uncongenial climate. It is traversed by gigantic and lofty mountain ridges in various directions, and so broken into rocky masses as to present few level or productive spots. It is covered, in the elevated parts, with snow, to a greater or less depth, during almost the entire year. Rain seldom falls, nor are there any dews. The temperature often varies 40° between sunrise and noon. Much less is known of the two last-mentioned sections of country than of that which lies on the shore of the Pacific, the chief seat, at present, of all the commercial or trading operations of the country.
A number of extensive and capacious rivers flow through the territory, generally taking their rise in the mountains, and their course towards the Pacific. The chief among these is the Columbia, (sometimes called the Oregon,) which originates in the Rocky Mountains, and, after a devious track of many hundred miles, enters the Pacific Ocean from the east, in latitude 46° 19' north. It is navigable for vessels of 12 feet draught for 120 miles, and for boats some 40 miles beyond, to the falls of the Cascade Mountains. Some travellers describe it as excelling most of the celebrated rivers of North America in beauty and magnificence. At its mouth lies a large and commodious estuary, the entrance to which, from the ocean, is somewhat intricate, but which affords shelter and good anchorage to vessels of the largest tonnage. The Columbia, in its long and tortuous course, receives the waters of numerous tributaries, flowing from the north, the east, and the south. Some of these are of great volume and extent, and are also supplied by countless smaller branches and forks, stretching from every point, and presenting thousands of admirable, mill sites. The other rivers which communicate directly with the Pacific are the Klamath and the Urnpqua, both south of the Columbia, and extending inland only to the first or coast range of mountains. The principal rivers which empty into the Columbia, at various points, are the Canoe, Kootanie, Clark's, Spokan, Okanagan, Lewis, Kooskooske, Salmon, Umatilla, Quisnel's, John Day's, Chute, Cathlatate's, Cowelitz, and Willamette. The last named is a very important stream, flowing through a spacious and fertile valley, and uniting with the Columbia at a point not many miles from the ocean.
A number of settlements have been made upon the shores of the Columbia; and on the banks of the Willamette are situated some of the largest villages and towns in the territory. Among the former are Fort Vancouver, Astoria, St. Helen's, and Milton, the first two of which are places of considerable trade; and among the latter are Portland, already containing 15,000 inhabitants, several mills, churches, school-houses, &c., Milwaukie, Oregon city, Linn city, Champoeg, Salem, and many others, all possessing ample water privileges, surrounded by a fine agricultural country, and inhabited by an industrious, intelligent, moral, and thriving people. Farther in the interior are Hillsborough and Lafayette, the latter having a population of 800. A railroad from Milton, on the Columbia, to Lafayette, and thence into the interior, is in contemplation, at an estimated cost of $500,000.
The mountains of Oregon frequently shoot up into conical peaks of astonishing height, presenting objects of grand and awful sublimity. The summits of many of these towering eminences, in the coast range, reach an elevation of from 12,000 to 14,000 feet above the level of the sea, ascending to twice the altitude of the region of perpetual snow, and bidding defiance to the approach of human footsteps. The Rocky Mountains, that immense natural barrier on the east, rise in many places to a still greater elevation. They form a continuous chain, often ascending to a height of 16,000 feet, but occasionally offering to the hardy traveller some convenient depression or gap, whereby he may pass from side to side. In the northern part of this range are the sources of Frazer's River, which finds its outlet at the north-west corner of the territory, after a course of 350 miles through the British possessions. The northern branch of the Columbia rises in these mountains, in latitude 50° north, and, after having traversed this elevated region some 220 miles, and having fallen 550 feet, is still found, at Fort Colville, half way across the territory, to be over 2000 feet above the ocean level.
The lands around Puget's Sound, in the north-west part of Oregon, are among the most valuable in the territory for agricultural purposes, as well as for commercial pursuits. They consist of extensive prairies, which furnish food for great numbers of horses, cattle, swine, &c. Several flourishing settlements are established in this vicinity, and a large amount of trade is carried on. A considerable portion of the inhabitants are French and English emigrants from Canada. Much excellent timber is found in this region; and mills have been erected upon the adjacent streams, where there are many valuable waterfalls. The waters of this sound abound in shell and other fish. The tide regularly flows and ebbs from fifteen to eighteen feet, and the navigation is unobstructed and safe.
Oregon is extremely rich in mineral resources, especially in the southern quarter, contiguous to the State of California. Large quantities of gold are dug in the fertile and pleasant valleys of the Klamath and the Umpqua. It is found even among the roots of the prairie grass. A lump valued at $230 was recently taken from a sod; and those who are in search of the precious metal in this section — of whom there are thousands — seldom dig to a depth of more than three feet. Iron ore abounds on the Columbia; and among the other minerals already found in different parts of the territory are copper, lead, platina, plumbago, sulphur, salt, and coal. The latter is very abundant on the Cowelitz River, and at Puget's Sound.
There are many populous tribes of Indians within the territory, whose views and feelings are dissimilar in regard to the encroachments of the white man, and the advancement of civilization around them. The most powerful tribe are the Shoshonoes, or Snake Indians, who are said to number 15,000. The other principal tribes are the Flatheads, Flatbows, Pointed Hearts, and Pierced Noses. There are, besides, numerous smaller tribes. The governor of the territory, in his message to the legislature, in the spring of 1851, advocates the passage of a law by Congress for the protection of the Indian tribes.
The population of this territory has multiplied prodigiously within a very few years. In 1840, the number was estimated at only 700 or 800. At this time, exclusive of Indians, it is probably not less than 25,000. The new towns are generally peopled by emigrants from the old states, who appear to be sufficiently aware of the value of orderly and liberal institutions, and have made due provision for their establishment and maintenance. They acknowledge the necessity of the immediate construction of roads and other improvements, at the public expense; the establishment of a generous system of common education; and the enactment of laws founded on those principles of justice and benevolence which distinguish the general codes of the several members of the federal Union.
At a late session of the territorial legislature, the capital of the state was located at Salem, on the River Willamette. Acts also were passed for the establishment of a penitentiary at Portland, and a university at Marysville.
The time cannot be very remote, when Oregon will be united, by a direct chain of intercommunication, with all the states and territories lying between the Rocky Mountains and the equally rocky strand of the Atlantic Ocean. Already, in fact, the work may be said to have advanced half way towards completion. The Great Northern Route, so called, embraces a cordon of railroads, to extend from Boston and New York to Dubuque, in Iowa; a great portion of the line being finished and in travelling order, and the residue in a state of forwardness. This line runs directly west upon, or very near, the parallel of 42° north latitude, scarcely varying a whole degree in its entire course, thus far, of over 1100 miles. From Boston and New York to Buffalo and Niagara Falls, this route has long been in active operation. Some few curves between Syracuse and Buffalo are to be overcome by a rectilinear section, which will be continued beyond the Falls, through the southern portion of Canada West, to Detroit, in Michigan. From the latter point, the Michigan Central Railroad now extends across that state, and around the southern margin of Lake Michigan, to Chicago; thence the line is to proceed to Dubuque, traversing the northern boundary of Illinois, and crossing to the western shore of the Mississippi. Here, however, it cannot be stayed. The Iowa Central Railroad will take up the work, and carry it to the borders of Nebraska. At this last terminus, only, is any obstacle to be apprehended that cannot be quickly removed by the enterprise of the surrounding population. It becomes a national duty, then, to extend the work through that desolate wilderness, until it shall touch the southern boundary of Oregon, in the same latitude of 42°. California and Oregon will then consummate the enterprise; thus securing a direct and uninterrupted connection between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, across the body of the continent; and interjoining, by an imperishable belt of union, the inhabitants and the the interests of the eastern and western extremes of this vast confederacy.
The Territory of Oregon is bounded north by the British possessions, from which it is divided at the parallel of 49° north latitude; east by the main range of the Rocky Mountains, separating it from the waste region of Nebraska; south by the Territory of Utah, and the State of California; and west by the Pacific Ocean. It extends from latitude 42° north to the above parallel; and, along its southern boundary, reaches from the 108th to the 124th degree of west longitude. Its area is estimated at upwards of 340,000 square miles.
The surface presents three distinct sections or tracts of country, formed by separate and nearly parallel mountain ranges, two of which extend through the territory from north to south. The Cascade Mountains form the eastern limit of the first section, its western boundary being the ocean ; between these mountains and the next eastern range, called the Blue Mountains, lies the middle or second section; and the third section, still farther eastward, reaches to the Rocky Mountains.
These divisions differ considerably in most of their physical characteristics — in soil, climate, and natural products. The soil of the western or coast section, for the space of 100 to 150 miles east of the ocean, is not remarkably well adapted to the growth of grains, although many kinds of vegetable esculents may be successfully cultivated. The land is well timbered with firs, spruce, pine, oaks, ash, cedar, poplar, maple, willow, and other forest-trees. Fruit-trees of the more hardy kinds, shrubbery, vines, &c., are found to thrive in all unexposed places. Towards the coast, some of the forest-trees attain a prodigious size and height. Near Astoria, eight miles from the sea, there is, or recently was, a fir-tree 46 feet in girth, and 300 feet high; the trunk rising to a height of 153 feet before giving off a single branch. On the banks of the River Umpqua is a still more enormous specimen of the fir, being 57 feet in circumference, and 216 feet high below the branches. Pines reaching an altitude of 200 to 300 feet, and 20 to 40 feet round, are quite common. Good grazing tracts, and lands suited to the culture of many kinds of grain, and to the growth of pears, apples, and similar fruits, are found in the interior of this section, and at the base of the Cascade Mountains. The climate in this quarter is mild, though affected unfavorably at times by the raw sea fogs. It is not, however, unhealthy. The winters continue only from two to three months, commencing in December, though the rainy season lasts from November to March. Snow is not common, except upon the summits of the mountains. The middle section of the territory possesses a fair soil, consisting in part of a light, sandy loam, with many tracts of rich alluvion in the valleys. It is peculiarly suited to the production of wheat, and is fruitful in almost every description of vegetation. The climate here, especially towards the south, is uniformly pleasant and salubrious. The third division, lying between the Blue and Rocky Mountains, is extremely rough, and generally barren, with a correspondingly uncongenial climate. It is traversed by gigantic and lofty mountain ridges in various directions, and so broken into rocky masses as to present few level or productive spots. It is covered, in the elevated parts, with snow, to a greater or less depth, during almost the entire year. Rain seldom falls, nor are there any dews. The temperature often varies 40° between sunrise and noon. Much less is known of the two last-mentioned sections of country than of that which lies on the shore of the Pacific, the chief seat, at present, of all the commercial or trading operations of the country.
A number of extensive and capacious rivers flow through the territory, generally taking their rise in the mountains, and their course towards the Pacific. The chief among these is the Columbia, (sometimes called the Oregon,) which originates in the Rocky Mountains, and, after a devious track of many hundred miles, enters the Pacific Ocean from the east, in latitude 46° 19' north. It is navigable for vessels of 12 feet draught for 120 miles, and for boats some 40 miles beyond, to the falls of the Cascade Mountains. Some travellers describe it as excelling most of the celebrated rivers of North America in beauty and magnificence. At its mouth lies a large and commodious estuary, the entrance to which, from the ocean, is somewhat intricate, but which affords shelter and good anchorage to vessels of the largest tonnage. The Columbia, in its long and tortuous course, receives the waters of numerous tributaries, flowing from the north, the east, and the south. Some of these are of great volume and extent, and are also supplied by countless smaller branches and forks, stretching from every point, and presenting thousands of admirable, mill sites. The other rivers which communicate directly with the Pacific are the Klamath and the Urnpqua, both south of the Columbia, and extending inland only to the first or coast range of mountains. The principal rivers which empty into the Columbia, at various points, are the Canoe, Kootanie, Clark's, Spokan, Okanagan, Lewis, Kooskooske, Salmon, Umatilla, Quisnel's, John Day's, Chute, Cathlatate's, Cowelitz, and Willamette. The last named is a very important stream, flowing through a spacious and fertile valley, and uniting with the Columbia at a point not many miles from the ocean.
A number of settlements have been made upon the shores of the Columbia; and on the banks of the Willamette are situated some of the largest villages and towns in the territory. Among the former are Fort Vancouver, Astoria, St. Helen's, and Milton, the first two of which are places of considerable trade; and among the latter are Portland, already containing 15,000 inhabitants, several mills, churches, school-houses, &c., Milwaukie, Oregon city, Linn city, Champoeg, Salem, and many others, all possessing ample water privileges, surrounded by a fine agricultural country, and inhabited by an industrious, intelligent, moral, and thriving people. Farther in the interior are Hillsborough and Lafayette, the latter having a population of 800. A railroad from Milton, on the Columbia, to Lafayette, and thence into the interior, is in contemplation, at an estimated cost of $500,000.
The mountains of Oregon frequently shoot up into conical peaks of astonishing height, presenting objects of grand and awful sublimity. The summits of many of these towering eminences, in the coast range, reach an elevation of from 12,000 to 14,000 feet above the level of the sea, ascending to twice the altitude of the region of perpetual snow, and bidding defiance to the approach of human footsteps. The Rocky Mountains, that immense natural barrier on the east, rise in many places to a still greater elevation. They form a continuous chain, often ascending to a height of 16,000 feet, but occasionally offering to the hardy traveller some convenient depression or gap, whereby he may pass from side to side. In the northern part of this range are the sources of Frazer's River, which finds its outlet at the north-west corner of the territory, after a course of 350 miles through the British possessions. The northern branch of the Columbia rises in these mountains, in latitude 50° north, and, after having traversed this elevated region some 220 miles, and having fallen 550 feet, is still found, at Fort Colville, half way across the territory, to be over 2000 feet above the ocean level.
The lands around Puget's Sound, in the north-west part of Oregon, are among the most valuable in the territory for agricultural purposes, as well as for commercial pursuits. They consist of extensive prairies, which furnish food for great numbers of horses, cattle, swine, &c. Several flourishing settlements are established in this vicinity, and a large amount of trade is carried on. A considerable portion of the inhabitants are French and English emigrants from Canada. Much excellent timber is found in this region; and mills have been erected upon the adjacent streams, where there are many valuable waterfalls. The waters of this sound abound in shell and other fish. The tide regularly flows and ebbs from fifteen to eighteen feet, and the navigation is unobstructed and safe.
Oregon is extremely rich in mineral resources, especially in the southern quarter, contiguous to the State of California. Large quantities of gold are dug in the fertile and pleasant valleys of the Klamath and the Umpqua. It is found even among the roots of the prairie grass. A lump valued at $230 was recently taken from a sod; and those who are in search of the precious metal in this section — of whom there are thousands — seldom dig to a depth of more than three feet. Iron ore abounds on the Columbia; and among the other minerals already found in different parts of the territory are copper, lead, platina, plumbago, sulphur, salt, and coal. The latter is very abundant on the Cowelitz River, and at Puget's Sound.
There are many populous tribes of Indians within the territory, whose views and feelings are dissimilar in regard to the encroachments of the white man, and the advancement of civilization around them. The most powerful tribe are the Shoshonoes, or Snake Indians, who are said to number 15,000. The other principal tribes are the Flatheads, Flatbows, Pointed Hearts, and Pierced Noses. There are, besides, numerous smaller tribes. The governor of the territory, in his message to the legislature, in the spring of 1851, advocates the passage of a law by Congress for the protection of the Indian tribes.
The population of this territory has multiplied prodigiously within a very few years. In 1840, the number was estimated at only 700 or 800. At this time, exclusive of Indians, it is probably not less than 25,000. The new towns are generally peopled by emigrants from the old states, who appear to be sufficiently aware of the value of orderly and liberal institutions, and have made due provision for their establishment and maintenance. They acknowledge the necessity of the immediate construction of roads and other improvements, at the public expense; the establishment of a generous system of common education; and the enactment of laws founded on those principles of justice and benevolence which distinguish the general codes of the several members of the federal Union.
At a late session of the territorial legislature, the capital of the state was located at Salem, on the River Willamette. Acts also were passed for the establishment of a penitentiary at Portland, and a university at Marysville.
The time cannot be very remote, when Oregon will be united, by a direct chain of intercommunication, with all the states and territories lying between the Rocky Mountains and the equally rocky strand of the Atlantic Ocean. Already, in fact, the work may be said to have advanced half way towards completion. The Great Northern Route, so called, embraces a cordon of railroads, to extend from Boston and New York to Dubuque, in Iowa; a great portion of the line being finished and in travelling order, and the residue in a state of forwardness. This line runs directly west upon, or very near, the parallel of 42° north latitude, scarcely varying a whole degree in its entire course, thus far, of over 1100 miles. From Boston and New York to Buffalo and Niagara Falls, this route has long been in active operation. Some few curves between Syracuse and Buffalo are to be overcome by a rectilinear section, which will be continued beyond the Falls, through the southern portion of Canada West, to Detroit, in Michigan. From the latter point, the Michigan Central Railroad now extends across that state, and around the southern margin of Lake Michigan, to Chicago; thence the line is to proceed to Dubuque, traversing the northern boundary of Illinois, and crossing to the western shore of the Mississippi. Here, however, it cannot be stayed. The Iowa Central Railroad will take up the work, and carry it to the borders of Nebraska. At this last terminus, only, is any obstacle to be apprehended that cannot be quickly removed by the enterprise of the surrounding population. It becomes a national duty, then, to extend the work through that desolate wilderness, until it shall touch the southern boundary of Oregon, in the same latitude of 42°. California and Oregon will then consummate the enterprise; thus securing a direct and uninterrupted connection between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, across the body of the continent; and interjoining, by an imperishable belt of union, the inhabitants and the the interests of the eastern and western extremes of this vast confederacy.